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Although
the test stand is not a very fun piece of hardware, it is
nonetheless invaluable. By constructing the GT in a frame
suited for its design and operation, I can get a better
idea of how it will fit in the bike. It is also a convenient
way to test the engine and work out any bugs before installing
it in the bike.
I
purchased all of the steel needed at Metal Supermarkets
here in Dallas TX. on Dolton Rd. The guys there are very
knowledgeable and have been a great help in building this
project. They can provide steel, stainless, and aluminum
in bars, tube, angle, sheets, whatever! They cut to length
for you and sell only what you need. I highly recommend
this place to anyone considering a project like this, or
any project where you would need a small quantity of metal.
Most metal suppliers only sell in full lengths of metal
(10 to 20 foot sticks!) and require a minimum order. Check
out their website at www.metalsupermarkets.com
to see if there is a location near you!
I
chose to use 1 inch square tube with a wall thickness of
.065 or 1/16 inch to make the stand. This should provide
enough strength and make it a little lighter than some of
the alternatives. Square tube is cheaper that round tube,
so this was also a factor. It will weld easily with any
welder, so no worries if your welder has a puny output!
Steel tubing, cut for the stand
Here
is the raw steel for making the stand. The guys at Metal
Supermarkets cut it to length for me on their bandsaw, so
it was ready for welding, and much easier to transport home.
There are 4 36 inch long sections and 12 16 inch long sections.
This meant that I have 11 feet of tube left over from the
2 sticks that I bought, as they were both 20 foot sticks.
Frame held with magnetic clamps for
welding
I
used magnetic squaring clamps to hold the frame together
for welding. They are indispensable! They allow for quick
alignment for tack welding, and are relatively inexpensive.
I buy them at Harbor Freight tools, and when you find them
on sale, they are only 1 or 2 bucks! I have lots of different
sizes and couldn't do without them now. Be sure to measure
corner to corner diagonally from upper left to lower right,
and then from lower left to upper right. If the measurements
are the same (or within about 1/16 inch) then the frame
is square. Make any adjustments as necessary.
Magnetic clamp for holding corners
Here
you can see how the clamp sits in the corner. They can also
be used for 45 or 135 degree holding. The little V cuts
can also be used to hold round pipe.
Pink color used to indicate tubing
size and wall thickness
Just
a side note, I didn't paint it pink. Promise! That is the
color system they use at the warehouse to determine wall
thickness.
The welding cart with everything
needed to produce good welds
Here
is my welding cart. The mig welder and gas bottle are on
the bottom, along with extra welding tips and spools of
wire. I am using flux core wire on this project because
it is just so easy. On the top is a 14 inch cut off saw,
and 4 (yes four!) angle grinders. Each grinder has a different
wheel. The wheels are from front to back, a cutoff wheel,
rotary wire cup brush, grinder wheel, and flap disc. Yes,
I use every one of them, and got tired of changing discs
all the time. Thankfully I have a wife that humors my needs
in the shop. The auto darkening welding helmet was an anniversary
gift from her. How cool is a woman like that!
Weld bead on the stand's frame
I
first tack welded both sides and then ran full beads on
all the upper joints.
Frame turned upright to get in to
angles for easier welding
Turning
the frame upright made getting to all of the inside joints
easier.
Welds are run completely around the
tubing sections for strength
Weld
beads were run around all of the adjoining edges. Once I
had two flat frames completed I ground the welds flat on
one side of each frame and used the magnetic clamps again
to attach the adjoining pieces. Unfortunately the picture
didn't come out so you will get the idea in the next picture.
Completed frame
The
completed frame is true and square. It is surprisingly strong
and had no trouble holding up while I jumped up and down
on it on the top center bar.
Completed frame
More
center bars will be added on the side once I know that the
placement will not get in the way of any of the components
I will be routing through the frame.
Completed frame
Sorry,
but just one more pic. I am always proud of my work. I taught
myself how to weld and machine, with a little help from
watching my father and brother. They have always been inspirations
to me. My father was a life long machinist, and my brother
was a mechanic. Growing up I believed that there was nothing
they couldn't do. I still believe it today! My father has
since retired, and my brother heads up a service center
at a large auto dealership. Yeah, I am EXTREMELY proud of
my family, and I learned everything I know from watching
them and asking far too many dumb questions. Thanks again
guys for putting up with me! And thanks mom for always helping
me out with my crazy ideas. It's getting time for me to
start a family of my own so that my kids can ask me all
those same questions, and probably some new ones too (like
"Dad, are you insane putting a jet engine into a motorcycle?).
Turbo and combustor in frame to show
size
Here
is a rough idea of how the turbo and combustion chamber
will sit in the frame when I weld on the supports for it.
The turbo will sit on top and the combustion chamber will
be right above the ground.
Turbo and combustor in frame to show
size
Here
is a view looking at it from the end. As I said, it is just
to show clearances. The combustor will be on the bottom,
with the turbo directly above. I will paint the frame when
I finish welding on all of the supports. I'll also make
a trip to Harbor Freight tomorrow and pick up some castor
wheels to put on so that it will be easier to move around.
The
next items up will be to get the supports made, and the
combustion chamber plumbing routed. I also bought some components
today to start on the electrical system which will be a
computer controlled ECU, or Electronic Control Unit. I'll
update as soon as possible
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