
The new engine |
Welcome back to
Part 2 of the Overly Awaited Big Update! There is a lot more
yet to go in this update, and even more to go on the bike.
There are more parts arriving tomorrow at the shop, so I look
forward to another day of intense building. Well,
lets get crack'a'lackin on Part 2 and see where we end up
this time around.
Having completed
most of the preliminary work for make ready, I wanted to
tackle the combustor itself. The idea is to make a combustor
that looks like it is one solid piece when done. This means
a lot of welding and even more grinding. The neighbors would
really love me after that. The good news is that most of
the neighbors were out for the Easter holiday, so I had
the ability to make as much noise as I wanted. Yeah, the
radio was blaring, grinders were whirring, and I was beating
metal into submission. It was a great weekend!

Cutting the tube down to size
The first thing
I had to do was cut the combustor tubing down to size. It
is an interesting note that I was not expecting to see this
pipe until some time next week. I guess the Easter Bunny
brought
me a present in his little basket. Funny, the Easter Bunny
looked just like a UPS driver this year!

The finished cut
To get the cut,
I first made sure one end was perfectly flat. There is a
really easy way to do this. Take a large piece of posterboard
and wrap it around the tubing. Line up the ends of the posterboard
with it puled tight, and the edge of the posterboard will
be a perfect line around the tube at a 90 degree angle to
the axial plane. This means that you can mark the perfect
cut easily. After I marked the tube as close to the end
as I could, I used the angle grinder with a flap disc to
clean the edge. I then measured up 9.5 inches and made a
mark on opposite sides of the tube. Using the posterboards
method again, I lined up the edge with the marks and made
a new line. I then followed around with the cut off wheel.
A little clean up with the flap disc and she was almost
ready.
I chose the 9.5
inch length based on the 1/4 inch end rings that would be
welded on. The addition of 1/4 inch on each side will give
me a 10 inch long combustor and flame tube.

Beveling the edge
The combustor
tubing has a 1/8th inch wall thickness. I
used the angle grinder with a 24 grit flap disc to put a
beveled edge all the way around both edges of the tube.
By doing this I can get a better weld penetration on the
combustor, which I will need since the welds will be ground
smooth.

Threading the spark plug holes
Next up I wanted
to thread the spark plug holes which will be used to hold
the ignition spark plugs for the combustor. Now, I do make
some pretty good mistakes sometimes. This was one of them.
Before sending the parts out for laser cutting, I noticed
what I thought was an error in my CAD drawing. It looked
like the holes I spec'd for the spark plugs were too large.
Since I was in a hurry to get the parts files sent to the
cutter, I just adjusted the holes to a quarter inch and
figured that I would drill them up when the pieces arrived.
At the time, it was completely oblivious to me that (A)
the holes were the right size in the drawing, and (B) I
don't have the right size drill bit for the reamer tap I
would be using to thread the spark plug holes.
A little ingenuity
on my part with a high speed reamer cutter and the drill
press soon enlarged the holes a bit larger than 1/2 inch
so they could be threaded. The reamer can be seen in the
picture above threaded into the plate. To make this job
easier I actually bolted the end cap to the drill press
table.

Injector tube
Pictured above
is one of the little injector tubes that get the fuel into
the combustion chamber. They are a really simple part, being
only a half inch outside diameter tube with a 3/8 inch inside
diameter. I hold them in the vise on the drill press and
chuck up the tap to hold it absolutely vertical. I then
hit the switch on the drill press and pulse it on for just
a second before turning it off and bring the tap down into
the tube. I can then release the chuck and finish tapping
the tube by hand, knowing that the tap is perfectly aligned
in the injector tube.

Five injector tubes in the end cap
The injector
tubes are 1 and 1/4 inches long so that 1/2 inch will protrude
from each side of the plate when they are welded in. The
nozzles can then thread into the inside and the fuel supply
will attach to the outside. The threads are 1/8th inch NPT
tapered pipe threads. The 4 outer injectors will be used
for the main fuel injectors, while the central injector
will be used for a smaller nozzle suited to starting the
engine.

End ring ready for welding
It was finally
time to weld on the first end ring to the combustor housing.
The first thing I did was to mark a line running parallel
to the axis of the tube down one side of the tube outside
wall. This is so that I can align both end caps to this
mark and have the bolt patterns identical on opposite ends.

Magnetic alignment blocks
The more I use
these magnetic clamps, the more uses I find for them. They
are just what the doctor ordered for aligning parts such
as the end ring to the combustor housing. The magnets do
not hold the plate in place so much as they just hold it
centered.

Tacking the end ring
With the end
ring lined up and double checked, I tack welded it to the
combustor casing. Since this kind of welding can cause the
ring or combustor housing to warp very easily, it is imperative
that you check the alignment often and go in small steps.
I used stitch welds alternating from one side to the other
to keep heat buildup to a minimum.

The welded combustor housing
After welding
the first ring in place, I was happy with the look. I checked
and found good weld penetration in the part, which is critical
in something like a combustor.

Injector cap in place
I bolted on the
injector cap to check for any warping. There was none, and
the cap sat nice and flat. This is also a reason for the
materials I chose for the new combustor. The 1/4 inch thick
rings are much more resilient to heat warping, as is the
1/8th inch wall tubing.

The exhaust manifold bolted on
After seeing
the injector end cap, I just had to see the exhaust manifold
cap in place. I am pleasantly surprised how easy it has
been so far to make all of the pieces line up correctly.
This thing is really starting to look good!

View down the pipe
This is always
one of my favorite views. It is also the last thing the
hot gasses will see on their journey out of the combustor.
So far, so good. I am sure that you can tell from the pictures
above that it was pretty dark out again. I figured it was
time to shut down for the night. The next morning I would
get up and finish welding the other ring and I would then
grind everything down nice and smooth.

Welding the injector tubes
The next day
came quickly and I got straight to work after waking from
my restful sleep the night before. Funny how good you can
sleep when you are just exhausted. The first order of business
was to weld the injector tubes in place from the inside
of the injector end cap. The tubes were aligned leaving
1/2 inch protruding from each side and then tacked. After
inspection to insure that everything was lined up, I ran
a nice fat weld bead around each one.
Notice my little tool in the right of the photo. It is just
a piece of 1/8th inch thick plate with the ends ground perfectly
flat. It is really good at removing the little spatter blobs
that are prevalent with flux core welding.

Rings welded and ground
I wasted no time
in getting the other end ring welded to the combustor. By
using the line down the side of the tube, I aligned it to
the one already welded to the other end. Grinding consisted
of multiple passes with a grinding wheel, then a 24 grit
flap disc, followed by a pass with a 60 grit flap disc.
The finish came out very nice. I found a couple areas of
incomplete penetration where I had overlapped welds when
starting and stopping. I ran new beads and ground them again
and everything was OK.

Combustor attached to turbo
I couldn't wait
to get the combustor attached to the turbo, so on it went.
The exhaust flange bolts on first, then the combustor housing
bolts to the exhaust flange.

Cap head screws
The cap head
screws really add a nice look to the engine when everything
gets mounted together. I have to admit, they are much more
expensive than regular grade 8 bolts. Who cares! It just
gives it that "jet engine feel" I think. You may
notice here that it would be impossible to put the bolts
in position behind the exhaust bend. I already thought of
this, and there are 3/8 inch studs that thread in and then
a regular hex nut can be fit in behind the bend and tightened
with a wrench.

The combustor just fits in the stand
I really thought
that I would have to make a modification to the test stand
to be able to fit the new combustor in there due to the
new sideways orientation. If you look closely at the upper
left you can see that it just barely clears the side rail
of the stand. Also of note is the stand offs used to keep
the heat shield away from the end cap. One more thing that
needs pointing out is the beautiful woman in the background,
below right in the picture. My wife came out for a visit
and she just sits and watches me while I work. A wonderful
woman for sure, and I never have to worry about there being
good music on the radio when she is in the shop! Metal -
check, welding - check, new engine - check, wonderful wife
- check, yeah it was a good day in the shop!

Injector side
The new combustor
sure does look a lot different from the old tiny one. It
does not stick out very far past the side of the turbo housings,
and there is now plenty of room up front beneath the turbo
compressor for a nice oil tank. It is funny how a combustor
that is so much bigger will allow me far more space to work
with in such a small motorcycle.

Angle view
Here you can
see more clearly that the combustor will not really stick
out the side of the bike very far at all. I may have it
angled up slightly on the bike to give more ground clearance
during right turns though. I will have to see how that works
out once I get the plumbing from the compressor to the combustor.
The new 3.5 inch pipe bends have not arrived yet, but I
expect them any day.

Now that's an engine!
Overall, I am
very pleased with the new engine. It looks much better than
the old one, will perform with better thrust, and gives
me more room to work with. The benefits keep showing themselves
as I work with it more and more. As long as the exhaust
bend works OK, this engine will be a winner.
 
 
 
 
 
Picture Montage
As of Friday
morning 4-14-06, I spoke with a potential new sponsor. They
would bring a lot to the table and we hope to get them on
board soon. I took some pictures of the project to send
to them, not realizing that the parts I desperately needed
would all be arriving shortly. After looking at the pictures,
it is almost a retrospective of what we have done so far.
I thought I would share them with you here and let you recap
some of the journey we have shared together. Also take note
of the difference in size between the old combustor end
cap and the new one, both visible in the last photo. I hope
you can see the strides we have made this year to bring
you some of the best projects on the internet.
New parts will
once again be here soon, with another update to follow shortly
thereafter. This time I have a tracking number and know
they will arrive! Ahh the power of technology and little
things like tracking numbers. Thanks again for reading,
and please remember to support the site. The more support
we get, the better the projects will be.
Russ W. Moore
Bad Brothers Racing
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